In some places in India, there are more festivals than there
are days of the year. In fact, life in India is pretty much one big festival
and they certainly know how to celebrate it.
Though I've experienced lots of little festivals in three months,
I'd been looking forward to experiencing one of North India's biggest
festivals: Holi.
Holi is a Hindu festival celebrated on the full moon day of the Phalgun month (usually February/March). There are so many legends surrounding Holi that is difficult to get a clear grasp on the events. As one legend has it (in a very short summary), someone was thrown into a fire but spared his life because he prayed to Lord Vishnu.
For weeks ahead, I was trying to pinpoint an ideal location
to spend the color festival. The festival sounded to be comparable to the fun
of Thailand's Songkran festival, except warnings to exercise
extreme caution on Holi. I've heard some Indians describe how they've seen Holi
transform into a “rude holiday,” with excessive drinking and public molestation
of women.
Incidents of rowdy groups of Indian pulling off the clothing
and groping foreign women was repeatedly brought to my attention as a warning.
Unsure if I'd be traveling alone or with friends at this point, I was anxious
to find a place that I could stay safe without having to sit in my guesthouse
all day.
Varanasi has a big and bold celebration of it's own, but I
was itching for something less chaotic. I decided to head to a small village
near Bodh Gaya where I'd be volunteering earlier than planned to experience how
the real India celebrates Holi.
Holi war begins on the streets of Bakrour village |
Here in Sujata-Bakrour village near Bodh Gaya, I've been
treated like royalty and looked after as if I was their own. Village life and
volunteering at the NGO deserve its own post another time.
On the first of two days of Holi, I joined some Japanese
students in celebrating village-style with some orphan boys from the Niranjana Project. The morning color
fight got a little too messy for my
taste, with mud and I don't even want to know what kind of mysterious liquids and cow shit from the village
streets. We were quick to shower before contracting too many diseases, and
emerged again past noon for the color-only celebration.
Mud and color soaked with some Japanese students studying abroad in India and boys from the orphanage |
I shadowed Siddhartha, the NGO project director, around the
village visiting his friends and family. The tradition among locals to wish one
another a Happy Holi by exchanging powder streaks on each others faces (or
feet, if they are of a higher caste or age). In every home we visited, we were
colored and force-fed chai and
traditional Holi sweets.
I couldn't have imagined a better way to spend Holi - in a
place where I could both partake in the experience and observe how the village
people enjoy their holiday. I was under strict instruction not to go outside by
myself and especially to avoid the 10-minute walk to Bodh Gaya city during the
two-day holiday for one reason only: drunk, reckless Indian men.
It is in the big cities that Holi has gotten the reputation
of becoming an ugly festival. Even in Bodh Gaya, a smaller Buddhist city, there
was rumored to be a murder of an Indian fellow as the outcome of a drunken
brawl. Even the safe compound of the village was not free of
overly-intoxicated men, as Holi is one of the only days in India without
limits.
I didn't get a picture when this drunk man had two bottles of whiskey tied on a rope around his neck all day |
I discussed with Siddhartha, as someone who has spent time
in both America and Japan, why is it that excessive drinking on Holi causes so
many problems in India? In America, we too, have the custom to drink large
quantities in times of celebration. Sure, poor decisions sometimes go hand in
hand with too much to drink, but here, in this sexually repressed country where alcohol is forbidden on most
days, men drink themselves into a stupor erasing all morals. But that, too, is
another topic for another time.
In any case, the relatively censored version of Holi that I
experienced was a beautiful blending of colors and friendships.
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